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When curating a ranking of London’s best eateries, one might foresee renowned Michelin-starred establishments. Yet, situated prominently among these culinary titans is a simple salonu found in a far-flung part of northern London.

A Shocking Honour

This little Turkish spot, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the city by a prominent culinary publication. This honour has left the owners totally shocked.

“I am totally shocked,” remarks the proprietor, referring to his family’s dedication that culminated in their humble restaurant securing such a high position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

The small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular spot, has retained much of its original character. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking performance, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” says the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s focused on the fare, and this eatery more than excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in gradually. When the savoury mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is rolled tightly inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong slap of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a deeper, more aromatic and not overly sweet taste.

Surpassing the Stars

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the summit of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, similar tasting menus at top-tier establishments can run into many times that amount.

A Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is most important is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a position of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to reveal what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Dedication

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I am truly proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a personal life but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s success is set to echo beyond its own doors. “In my opinion numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the greater significance of this culinary honour.